Kenmore Dryer Takes Too Long to Dry Clothes

Dryers drift into this problem quietly. A load that used to finish in one cycle now needs a second, then a third. Towels are damp in the seams, jeans are warm but not dry, and the laundry room smells humid. Because the dryer still runs and still seems to heat, people keep running it until the electric bill makes them wonder. A Kenmore dryer that takes too long is almost always moving too little air, making too little heat, or misjudging how wet the clothes are.

Drying is an airflow job

A dryer works by heating air, passing it through the tumbling clothes, and exhausting the moist air outside. If the exhaust path narrows at any point, wet air lingers in the drum and the cycle stretches. That path begins at the lint screen, goes through the blower, and continues through the duct to the outside wall. Any one of these can restrict it.

Where the airflow gets stuck

The lint screen is the obvious point, but a screen that looks clean may still be coated with a film from fabric softener sheets. Washing the screen with warm water and a soft brush, and letting it dry, restores airflow. Beyond the screen, lint packs into the housing and duct. In many Bay Area homes the dryer vent runs up through a wall or along a closet ceiling to a hood on the outside, and long or twisted runs collect lint. A flexible foil duct behind the dryer is also easy to crush when the machine is pushed back. The outside hood flap can stick closed with lint or a nesting bird.

Run the dryer for a minute and stand at the outside hood. A strong, steady push of air is what you want. Weak airflow, or none, tells you the problem is in the vent.

The heat side

If airflow is good and clothes are still damp, the dryer may be making only part of the heat it should. An electric model like the 26-82272 may have a partly failed element or only half of its double breaker delivering power. A gas dryer such as the 796.91022900, which is no longer sold new, may have a burner that lights weakly or cycles off early. The symptoms overlap with those on our dryer not heating page, where those parts are discussed in more detail.

Sensing and controls

Many modern dryers end the cycle based on moisture sensing rather than time. Sensor bars inside the drum can get coated with residue, so the dryer believes clothes are dry and ends early, or it never gets a good reading and runs long. Wipe the sensor strips gently with a damp cloth if you can see them. A thermistor or control fault can also cause cycles to end at the wrong moment. If a dryer ends cycles early on damp laundry, the sensing is under suspicion; if it runs too long, airflow and heat are.

Load habits that stretch cycles

An overstuffed drum cannot tumble the load apart, and clothes remain wet in the center. A tiny load can ball up and stay damp. Loads that leave the washer very wet add to the time, and a washer with a weak spin gives the dryer extra work; if that’s the case, see washer not spinning. Mixing heavy towels with light synthetics is also a common cause of uneven drying. These are easy to rule out.

Symptoms and clues

• A hot laundry room and warm walls near the vent run: exhaust may be leaking before it leaves.
• A musty smell on clothes: moisture is not leaving the drum.
• Very hot dryer top or door: restricted airflow.
• Dry on the outside and damp inside: wrong cycle, overload, or sensing.
• Gradual worsening over months: lint buildup, not a sudden failure.

Owner checks in order

1. Clean the lint screen, then wash it to remove softener film and let it dry.
2. Run the dryer empty on air or low heat and feel the airflow at the outside hood.
3. Check the hood flap for lint or an obstruction and clear it carefully.
4. Pull the dryer forward a short distance and check the duct for kinks or a crushed section.
5. Check that the duct is not longer or more twisted than before a move.
6. Reduce the load size, mix items, and try a normal cycle.
7. For electric models, confirm both halves of the double breaker are on; for gas models, confirm the gas valve is open.

What not to do

Do not reach into the dryer’s housing or blower with tools while it is connected. Do not replace a flexible foil duct with plastic or leave the dryer venting into the closet or a crawlspace; that puts moisture and lint where they do not belong. Do not keep running load after load on a dryer that is very hot to the touch. If you smell burning, turn the dryer off at the breaker.

Closets, stacks and long runs

Stacked laundry and closet dryers in San Francisco flats push the dryer close to the wall, which flattens the duct. Long vent runs through multiple floors exist in some buildings and require maintenance by the building. If you rent, ask the landlord or manager who cleans the main vent run, because the section inside the walls is out of reach for you.

When to book

If airflow at the hood is strong, the lint screen is clean, and cycles are still long, the issue is in the heating or sensing. The technician checks airflow, heating and controls in order, explains the cause, provides a written estimate and does nothing without your approval. Bring the model number from the label in the door opening. Read about the visit on our Kenmore dryer repair page, and see the Kenmore dryer guide for label locations.

Frequently asked questions